Nikon F100 Camera Body Only
Photography (Nikon)


Nikon

Price: $999.00


  • With its strong but lightweight Magnesium Alloy body, the F100 meets the needs of certain professionals seeking compact size along with high-performance flexibility
  • 5 Area Autofocus system with Dynamic Autofocus
  • Built-in motor drive shoots at up 4.5 frames per second
  • The F100 a 35mm SLR body geared to the professional and is situated beyond the N90 and behind the F5 as the #2 top camera in the Nikon line

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Pratt & Whitney Powers Flight of Second Northrop Grumman X-47B Unmanned Combat ... MarketWatch (press release)

Company.

The flight of the tailless, autonomous aircraft known as Air Vehicle 2 (AV-2) took place at Edwards Air Force Base on Nov. 22 and lasted for about 30 minutes.

"The successful flight of the second UCAS aircraft is a testament to a strong partnership between Pratt & Whitney and our teammates from Northrop Grumman and the United States Navy," said Jimmy Reed, director of Advanced Engine Programs for Pratt & Whitney. "We have worked diligently to get ready for these tests and Pratt & Whitney's propulsion system performed well, allowing the aircraft to complete all planned activity during the flight."

Northrop Grumman awarded a contract to Pratt & Whitney in 2008 to develop and integrate the engine and exhaust system for the X-47B. The Pratt & Whitney F100-PW-220U engine, a derivative of the F100-PW-220 and -220E engine models that power the F-15 Eagle and F-16 Falcon, enjoys the maturity gained from more than 12 million hours of operational experience. The engine and unique exhaust system have successfully completed ground accelerated mission testing. The accelerated mission test simulated the planned usage of the propulsion system during the X-47B flight test program. This endurance test demonstrated the durability and performance of the F100-PW-220U unique engine hardware and the exhaust system.

The F100-PW-220U engine is capable of providing up to 16,000 pounds of thrust and is intended for operation in a maritime environment, including carrier deck operations. The successful addition of AV-2 to the demonstration program provides a critical inflection point for the UCAS-D flight test program. The availability of two flight test aircraft is important for helping the program maintain a satisfactory flight test rhythm as it begins transitioning both aircraft to Naval Air Station Patuxent River, Md., for shore-based carrier suitability testing in early 2012. Carrier demonstrations for the unmanned combat air system are scheduled in 2013.

Pratt & Whitney is a world leader in the design, manufacture and service of aircraft engines, space propulsion systems and industrial gas turbines. United Technologies, based in Hartford, Conn., is a diversified company providing high technology products and services to the global aerospace and commercial building industries.

This press release contains forward-looking statements concerning future business opportunities. Actual results may differ materially from those projected as a result of certain risks and uncertainties, including but not limited to changes in government procurement priorities and practices or in the number of aircraft to be built; challenges in the design, development, production and support of technologies; as well as other risks and uncertainties, including but not limited to those detailed from time to time in the companies' Securities and Exchange Commission filings.

Shawn A. Watson Pratt & Whitney Military Engines 860.565.9654 shawn.watson2@pw.utc.com

SOURCE Pratt & Whitney

Copyright (C) 2011 PR Newswire. All rights reserved

Canon EF 100mm f/2.8L IS USM 1-to-1 Macro Lens for Canon Digital SLR Cameras
Photography (Canon)


Canon

List Price: $1,700.00
Price: $926.00
You Save: $774.00 (46%)

  • Near-silent Ultrasonic focusing
  • 100mm lens with f2.8 aperture
  • Enjoy life-size close-up capabilities without an adapter
  • Compatible with 67mm filters

Read more about Canon EF 100mm f/2.8L IS USM 1-to-1 Macro Lens for Canon Digital SLR Cameras


Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro USM Lens for Canon SLR Cameras
Photography (Canon)


Canon

List Price: $950.00
Price: $539.99
You Save: $410.01 (43%)

  • Secondary diaphragm blocks stray light at f/2.8 for increased contrast
  • Measures 3.1 inches in diameter and 4.7 inches long; weighs 21.1 ounces; 1-year warranty
  • 100mm macro USM lens with f/2.8 maximum aperture for Canon SLR cameras
  • 3-group floating system for exceptional close-up performance; full-time manual focus

Read more about Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro USM Lens for Canon SLR Cameras


f100 vs tt cobra

A ford f100 truck racing a twin turbo mustang on the street. A must see!

I have a 65 ford f100 with 3 speed manual, How do I make it Automatic?

I have a 65 ford f100 with 3 speed manual transmission and a 352 V8 engine. What automatic transmission do I need that will fit on the 352 engine with out modifications?


There is no way to do this without modifications.That is a big job and if you are not an experienced mechanic i would not attempt it-this involves fabrication of drive shafts, changing and moving crossmembers and mounts and matching parts that that only an expert can know how to do. If you have a truck just like yours with an auto trans it could be done by someone with good mechanical ability, otherwise dont attempt it or you will wind up spending a very large amount of $$$.


do you have a mechanical inclined mind, if not forget it. buy another f100 and use the parts to change it.

How do I change from 4bbl to 2bbl carb on 1969 Ford F100?

The truck was originally 2bbl carb. Somebody changed intake and put 4bbl Holly on truck. Want to change back to just a standard Ford 2bbl carb. What all do I need to do so?

Vehicle is manual choke vehicle. 302 ci. Ford F100 Ranger.
Not changing for mileage. The truck has been setting for quite a while, old carb is bad, don't care to rebuild. 2 bbl is cheaper to purchase.


Two ways.

You could use a 2 barrel carburetor adapter plate on your current intake manifold.

You could replace the 4 barrel intake manifold with a 2 barrel manifold.

If setup correctly, the 4 barrel will get the same or better fuel mileage, as long as you use a light touch on the throttle. This is because the engine is normally running on the primary barrels, these are usually smaller then the barrels used on a 2 barrel carburetor. The secondaries (all 4 barrels) are not opened until the engine is placed under a load (heavy foot on the throttle). The secondaries are operated by engine vacuum and only open as much and as long as the engine demand requires.


you need a 2 barrel intake, a 2 barrel carburetor and intake and carburetor gaskets and whatever linkage might be necessary and tools/manual.


You would need to oreder a 2barrel intake manifold then put the 2 barrel carb on top of that.


You'll have to buy a 2bbl carb and manifold. Then you'll have to change manifolds and carbs and readjust the linkage. probably.


You can buy an adapter plate. Much easier than changing the manifold.

»»»


I think you're going to be surprised how little your fuel mileage changes. You won't even notice it.


if you want to change it back from 4 barrell to a 2 barrell, you will have to drain the radiator and change the intake to a 2 barrell intake or get an adapter from a 4 barrell to a 2 barrell.

How big is the difference between a nikon 65 and a nikon 80. How about a Nikon 80 compaired to a Nikon F100?

Are all the lenses interchangeable? Are the lenses interchangeable with newer Digital SLRS?

Thanks for your help!

I am relatively new to photography.. I just had my N65 stolen... Now I am debating between paying $150 to get two lenses and a N80 or pay around a few hundred for just the body of a F100. Is it really worth it for me to get the F100? Is the N80 as good as the N65? Any other suggestions for cameras? Will the lenses be interchangeable between the three?
whats a normal price to pay for a N80 along with 2 lenses (30-300 and the smaller standard sigma lense) and a tripod?
Is the Sigma lense compatable with the Nikon Digital D80?


The N80 is a much better camera--better metering system, better flash system, better magnification in the viewfinder, etc. that it's a no-brainer to get the N80 over the N65, IMHO.

With the F100, what you're getting is a much tougher body over the N80 and N65.

I suggest getting the N80 and the AF lenses you want instead of spending $150 more on the F100. Then, later you can use those lenses on the Nikon digital SLRs. Lenses should work on the N65, N80 and F100 interchangeably.

I own an N80, so of course, I find the F100 tempting always. But the F100 doesn't have the popup flash and is *a lot* heavier. The N80 seems like the perfect way to upgrade from the N65 while getting the features/controls of the F100 in a lighter package.

Edit: search eBay for the prices you're asking about.


The N80 will get you going. There is no reason to buy a F100 unless you are shooting as a pro.

When you eventually move into the DSLR arena, all the lenses will work just fine.


I agree with the above answers. You have many choices when it comes to upgrading. And, since so many people have 'upgraded' to digital, there's plenty of 35mm Nikons out there.

Don't worry about compatibility of bodies. That's one of Nikon's strongest points. Read these two article to put your mind at ease.

http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/compatibility.htm
http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/compatibility-lens.htm

As far as the Sigma lenses go, if they are being used on a Nikon N series camera, then you'll have full compatibility.

I've got a Sigma 28-300mm that works well will all my digital Nikons, as well as every film SLR I have from the N2000 and N65.

By the way, I'd suggest checking your local Craigslist as that lets you try the camera bodies and lenses before buying. I've gotten some great deals that way without worrying about compatibility or the condition of the equipment.

I hope this helps you.


The N80 is just fine. I have a F100 as my main film body. IMHO, it is one of the top two film bodies Nikon ever made. It's auto focus is faster and more reliable than the N80, and it is more sturdily built, but for most folks that wouldn't be the main deciding factor. The F100 does not have a built in flash. And it is heavy. The N90 might be another contender. Whichever one you decide on, it would be hard to go wrong with film camera prices being as low as they are now. Good luck!

What are the capabilities of a 1964 ford f100 292?

I recently bought a 1964 ford f100 with a 292. Got it started today too. I was wondering what type of power this engine can make. I heard mixed reviews about this engine. Some say it horsepower is lacking while others say its a good engine. What i am wondering is what type of Horsepower ratings does the 1964 292 get and is capable of a burnout or just too weak?

Thanks


The 292 is a very capable engine, just not especially for hot rodding. It had/has oiling problems on the top end. There were kits available to remedy this and might be found at swap meets or ebay. Although difficult to find "rams horn" exhaust manifolds and dual pipes can be installed in place of the crossover exhaust. Four barrel manifold and carb can also be swapped.

While you could put a 302 in it (like everyone else says), there's something to be said about having the original engine.


There s/b no problem doing a nice smokin' burnout if you pour motor oil on the back tires.


The old Y Block series of Ford V8's came out in 1954 as a 238 Cu In overhead to replace the venerable Ford Flat Head V8 which had been in use since the 1930's. In 1955 Ford upped it to 272 CU In and in 1957 to 292 Cu In. They were on their way out in 64 as Ford was switching to a new design which evolved into the 289 thru 350 and finally settled, in the 80's, into being the 5Liter. The 292 wasn't a bad engine, for it's time but was certainly no hot rod. The Chevy V8's which came out in 55 were vastly more popular and were a hot rodders delight. I never heard of anyone hot rodding the old Y Blocks.


It was Ford's first attempt at building a overhead valve engine in 1954 as a 239 ci and 64 was the last year for the old Y block, as a 292, 186 hp. So it is a very outdated design that is overly heavy and lacks a good oiling system. It does make good torque. but most consider it a better boat anchor.

If you have a standard tranny, there is no problem spinning the back tires, but it's another story for the automatics.


The 292 and the 312 are almost the same engine except for bore and stroke and the 312's variations in Hi Po tech for the day. Most people hot rodding 292's either swapped out for a 312 or built their own. The 57 Thunderbird had a 312 with a Paxton supercharger and 4bbl carb atop. Cannot say that it was a Corvette killer but for a the people back in the day it was a head turner in 57... The longer you wait the harder it is becoming to find parts for these engines, especially at a bargain pricing... Just as cheap and easy in that old truck to find a used 5.0 and transmission of choice and shove it down in there.

How do i eliminate play in the steering of a 73 Ford F100?

I have a 73 F100 that has alot of play in the steering. What do I need to replace or fix to tighten up the steering?


Ok, you need to find where the slack is. Get some one to turn the wheel while you watch. First place to look is the rubber piece (I just went blank on its name). It bolts between the steering column and steering box. If it's worn replace. If not inspect the steering linkage (tie rods, Pittman arm). If they are tight and the slack is in the steering box itself there is a large flat head screw you can adjust the slack out, I wouldn't recommend doing that. The last time I adjusted one the box ended up stripping out. Good luck.


front end allignment


replace the tie rod ends, idler arm, possibly pitman arm. take it to a front end alignment place, let them do it. not for amateurs to attempt. special tools required.


look on the steering gear box u should see a screw with a nut on it loosen the nut about 1 turn tighten the screw a little check play an adjust if needed There should be a small amount of play Than hold screw an tighten nut back down This has always been a problem with fords with manual steering


Idler arm, drag link, tie rod ends, ball joints, pittman arm. Some of these components may be OK, but chances are they are all wore out on a 35 year old truck.
You are looking at at 3-4 hundred in parts, and a chunk of labor if you have it done. Good Luck.


If the play is in steering gear box, You can adjust the "worm gear" in the gear box by loosing the "jam nut" and turn the adjuster bolt (in the center of the jam nut ) clockwise . This bolt is aways on the opposite of the pitman arm .
Do not Over adjust it!

What engine should i purchase for my 1962 Ford F100 Pickup?

I am currently restoring a 1962 Ford F100 pickup that has a 223 straight 6 in it mow. I am looking for a engine with some more muscle but not too much. What do you reccommend???


Duramax diesel twin turbo

how can I set the timing on my 72' ford f100 by ear, where do I start?

I have a 72' f100 with a 302 v8. I'm not sure of the year motor.don't know what the timing should be.can I get it close by listening, what do i listen for?


Take the spark plug out of the #1 cylinder. Have a friend bump the starter while you hold your thumb over the hole. When air pressure starts to push your thumb off the hole, stop. Place a small dowel rod or a long screwdriver carefully into the hole. Have your friend bump the starter again carefully and watch for the dowel/screwdriver to rise up. Keep bumping the starter until the dowel/screwdriver stops rising or just starts to drop. This should put the piston close to top dead center. Remove the dowel/screwdriver and replace the spark plug and wire. Trace the #1 plug wire back to the distributor cap and note where it enters. Take the cap off and then look at the rotor and where it is pointing. It should be pointing at the spot where the #1 wire tower is. If not, loosen the distributor hold down bolt and slow rotate the distributor body in the direction that the #1 wire tower needs to go to line up with the rotor. Tighten hold down bolt and replace the cap. You should be able to now get the engine started. Once it's running you can loosen the hold down bolt and rotate the distributor and listen to the engine speed change. Advancing the distributor will cause the engine speed to increase a bit while retarding the distributor will cause it to slow. Of course you can always borrow a timing light from a buddy and do it the easy way too. :O)

How do I get my speedometer and odometer to work again on my 72 Ford F100?

My speedometer and odometer stopped working on my 72 Ford F100. I'm not sure where to look. I've been told it might need some graphite lubrication on the gear attached to the cable that runs from the transmission. I'm not quite sure what to do.


There are only 3 things that can cause the problem on this truck. The cable broke or came loose. The gage itself has broken. The gear in the tailshaft of the trans. Check them in that order. I put them in order of ease of repair. Hopefully it is just the cable. Graphite will not fix this problem. Keep in mind that you may have 2 cables if you have cruise. One from trans to cruise, one from cruise to gage. The cruise itself could have quit but this is not likely. It is rare for this truck to have cruise anyway.

How to install oil pressure gauge in 76 ford f100?

My f100 has the one piece all electrical gauge cluster, and the temp and oil don't work anymore. I bought the gauges, and cables, but i can't find where to plug in the oil pressure nylon tube.


I assume you bought an aftermarket mechanical gauge set. The stock oil sending unit should be removed. The brass adapter will go in the same hole and the hose connected to the fitting w/compression nut. Do NOT over tighten the little nut, it just has to be snug. Put the nut on the hose, then the little "BB" looking ferrule on the hose. Push hose into fitting as far as it will easily go, slide BB & nut to fitting and, while holding hose in hole, snug the nut. Check to make sure the hose won't pull out. Start truck and watch for leaks a few minutes and you should be ready to go.

What performance parts would be best 1977 Ford F100 Ranger?

I have a 1977 Ford F100 Ranger XLT with a 351 Modified. Im wondering what type of parts and work i could do myself to get the most out of this motor? Could someone give me some ideas? I got like 5000 to spend on it! thanks