Photography (Nikon)
List Price:
Price: Too low to display
- 3-inch Ultra-High Resolution (921,000-dot) Clear Color Display
- EXPEED C2 for enhanced image quality and processing speed
- 5-way VR Image Stabilization System
- 14.1-megapixel CCD sensor for superb image quality
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First Look: Nikon 1 V1, the first mirrorless model from Nikon
Mirrorless system cameras, or SLR-likes, have experienced tremendous growth over the past few years. But until recently, Nikon offered no such models. In September, though, Nikon unveiled the 10-megapixel V1 ($900 with kit lens) and the 10-megapixel J1 ($650 with kit lens).
Both are now available in stores and online. I got a chance to try out the Nikon V1. Here are my first impressions:
Design and ergonomics. The most obvious way the V1 differs from most of Nikon's SLRs, such as the D7000, is size and weight. Even with its viewfinder (not available on the J1), the V1 is significantly thinner, shorter and lighter than even Nikon's entry-level SLRs, which is important if you travel.
Nikon tried to strike a balance between including plenty of physical controls (about a dozen, including buttons, a scroll wheel, a dial, and others) and keeping you from getting lost in menus. For the most part they succeeded, although I think the ISO and exposure settings should still have been given physical controls, or at least a place on the mode dial.
Still photos. Overall, I was impressed by what this little camera can do without a flash. Whether indoors or outdoors, I felt it worked quite well. And in very low light, my results were close to what I could capture with an SLR. But I think it would have been better if there was a popup flash. I wouldn't appreciate having to pay $150 for a proprietary external flash that only fits this camera, when the camera itself costs $900.
I was impressed with several different burst modes, one using the mechanical shutter and a few others that are accessible when you set the camera to use an electronic shutter (10, 30 or 60 frames per second), which also lets you fire shots silently.
Video. I was impressed with the quality and sharpness of the HD-resolution video, in both indoor and outdoor settings. Colors seemed vibrant, and contrast looked very good. However, it didn't appear as good as what I've seen on camcorders, particularly in the smoothness of zooming in and out. Like most SLR-likes and SLRs, you zoom the V1's kit lens by turning a ring.
Although I wasn't able to test it, Nikon does have a lens (VR 10-100mm f/4.5-5.6 PD-Zoom) that includes a switch on it for camcorder-like zooming. Also, when I was in motion (walking down the street) and capturing video, the V1 recorded rather jittery video. I thought its image stabilization system would compensate for my motion more effectively.
I also tried capturing video in very low-light situations. Although the footage was somewhat grainy, it wasn't that much grainier than similar low-light video I've captured with one of Nikon's digital SLRs. However, the V1's slow-motion mode was disappointing since the resolution was very low.
LCD and Viewfinder. The display and the viewfinder both worked very well in my tests. When shooting in live view mode and composing on the LCD, the high-quality display appeared to work very well, even when panning in low light. The same was true for the high-quality electronic viewfinder, although I still prefer the through-the-lens one found on an SLR. Still, this type of viewfinder has its advantages. For example, here's one thing you can't do on an SLR: Look through the viewfinder and play back your images or video. On the V1, you can review them in the viewfinder, and even zoom in to check for sharpness and focus. That could be important in bright light, when the sun washes out your display.
Other features. The V1 has other features and accessories, that I couldn't try out. But one that intrigued me at first, but I felt came up short, was its motion snapshot mode, which captures one second of video and a still image. When you review it, the slideshow plays the video back in slow motion followed by a transition to the still image, both of which are set to music included in the camera.
However, to get this mini-slide show onto your computer, you can't just transfer the video file and play it back on your desktop or laptop. Instead, you need to install Nikon's View NX2 software and follow several steps. The idea is great, but it would be a lot better in practice if it were more flexible (longer clip and the ability to add more stills).
The folks at Nikon must have thought this mode would get a lot of use, since they included it on the mode dial, along with three other essential modes: still image, smart photo selector, and video. But I think most people will use it rarely, if at all.
Overall, this mirrorless camera should be a very good start for Nikon, once they knock a few hundred dollars off the price.
Nikon Coolpix P7100 Review
If you’re dithering between a mirrorless and a DSLR camera for serious, down-to-earth photography, this one from Nikon fits exactly that role.
Sure, the lens is fixed but it is a Nikkor that equates to 28-200mm as a 35 SLR equivalent: a 7.1x enlargement in fact. Very cleverly, Nikon has also installed an optical viewfinder: tiny but useful.
Agreed, the CCD captures only 10.1 megapixels, meaning you can snare a maximum image size of 3648×2736 pixels or as a 31x23cm print. But note: the CCD measures a largish 15mm across the diagonal. Compare the Nikon V1, with a diagonal of 16mm.
One negative: you have to forgo Full HD video with the P7100: max res is only 1280x720p, although I did find the AF and exposure control worked effortlessly while shooting video. A downer is that you can’t shoot stills while recording video: and it interrupts the video run.
However, Nikon describes the P7100 as “the top model in the COOLPIX series.”
After only five minutes with the new camera, fiddling with the controls and scanning the copious viewfinder menus, I have to agree.
This one sits in the same territory as Canon’s well-regarded G-series of fixed lens compacts — but IMHO the Nikon does it better.
With camera in hand, the first thing you notice is the articulated screen that can be lowered 81 degrees from the vertical or upward by 105 degrees. But no sideways swing!
I particularly liked the external controls, especially the smallish knob/button at left: this gives direct control of ISO setting, bracketting, image quality/size/file format, custom picture control and white balance. After many years reviewing cameras that call for endless digging into viewfinder menus to access these features, this method has to be the pick of all the approaches.
Look across to the right of the top deck and you find the mode dial that takes you into auto, Program AE, shutter and aperture priority plus manual — and another button that gives direct access to exposure compensation, scene modes, effects. There are also three interesting positions on the mode dial that effectively give you three custom user settings.
It’s worth noting that there are four new special effects: zoom exposure, defocus during exposure, cross-processing and creative monochrome.
These are fascinating. Take ‘creative monochrome’: you can vary the degree of graininess or you could even render the image as a solarised one. With ‘cross-processing’ you can simulate the effect of processing a colour negative in chemicals intended for reversal film … or vice versa!
I have to admit that the method of selecting special effects and scene modes left a little to be desired: you begin by rotating the mode dial to either, then you must hit the menu button to make your specific choice. Surely a better way would be to present the choices on screen immediately the mode is selected.
The interesting zoom memory is operable with the use of the Fn1 button, sited on the front surface. Not sure in my own photography how I could use this but possibly a useful feature when you have to match angles; up to three focal lengths can be logged.
There is a panorama mode, along with supplied software (Win and Mac) to stitch the images together: sure, it’s not as elegant as Sony’s approach where the images are stitched within the camera … but at least it’s there.
Other niceties: a neutral density filter that can apply an exposure cut of three f stops. With this you can enjoy slower shutter speeds and shoot those dreamy, motion blurred images of breaking waves and other movement.
The big plus for many people is RAW capture (Nikon calls it NRW and it has to be converted), giving image files free of compression artefacts present in JPEG capture.
StartupAbout a second and a half from startup In could shoot the first shot; follow-ons about a second apart.
...Nikon Coolpix S6150 Review PhotographyBLOG (blog)
Ease of UseFrom the front, the Nikon Coolpix S6150 doesn't look anything special. It's a simple box-shaped camera with a slightly bulging lens barrel to house the 7x optical zoom. The slim flash sits just to the top right of the lens as you face it which could get fingers slipping over it while taking a picture.
On the back, the touch-screen has managed to eradicate all but three buttons which are located to the right side. A small thumb pad is just above to rest it while you're shooting. It would be nice to see the zoom on the screen like we saw with the Nikon Coolpix S100 but instead the S6150 has a small rocker switch wrapped around the shutter release button. The power button is sat next to the shutter release and lights up green when the camera is switched on.
One of the buttons on the back is the direct video button which will begin recording video around a second after you press the button. The reason for the delay is so the S1650 can focus and meter before it starts. Zooming is possible during filming and while the motor does make a noise that can be captured by the microphone when it's quiet, it's insubstantial and in a normal environment shouldn't impose at all.
On the top right shoulder facing the back of the S1650, the camera has a USB and HDMI port for downloading either pictures or video. The S6150 does record video in HD but at 720p, it's not Full HD which is a shame. One advantage of having the ports on the top of the camera is that you can charge the battery in camera directly through the USB. This is great for travelling photographers or when you're away from a mains socket for a long period of time. Remember you don't have to tell the camera that you want to charge via computer - it does it automatically - but you can turn it off if necessary.
Continuing with the buttons, the middle one has a green camera on it and this is for choosing the shooting mode. You have three options: auto, scenes and smart portrait. It would be nice to see a more manual option instead of the smart portrait which can be put in the scene menu. Touching the option will enable it. Once a mode has been enabled, there are two small arrows on the screen; one on the bottom and one to the left side of the screen.
The bottom arrow brings up a screen that allows you to access resolution, touch-screen options, ISO, drive modes, white-balance, video, video focusing modes and wind noise reduction. There's also a spanner icon to go into the set-up menu. Usually, set-up menus are pretty large with lots of stuff to look at and can be quite over whelming. Nikon have simplified it by stripping lots of stuff out or bunching it together. The lists are also thumbnails so they're easier to press and it also makes the screen more welcoming.
The arrow on the left brings up more often used features including flash, self-timer, macro and exposure compensation. This new menu system is certainly easier to navigate than older Nikon menus but it leaves a feeling of sparsity, as though not as much has been put into it. It also reduces the option of expanding your photography because there isn't as much stuff to change.
In all likelihood, a lot of thought has gone into that before the decision was made. That being the case, the Nikon Coolpix S6150 isn't aimed at photographers on the look-out for a pocketable extension of a DSLR. It's a shame because the zoom is impressive enough at 7x optical (28-196mm in 35mm terms) and the S6150 certainly looks the part.
Picking the Nikon Coolpix S6150 up, it feels solid enough and there's a satisfying weightiness to it. Not the weight that will prey on your mind as you carry it around, but will give you peace of mind that it can't be stolen by light fingered passers by. The body is metal but covered in a rubbery coating that feels nice and gives a bit extra grip.
On the bottom, the battery and memory card share a compartment which has a plastic lid. On its own, we don't think it would be very strong, but there's a metal plate under it to add strength. It works because there's only a little bit of play in it and the hinges seem strong enough too. The Nikon Coolpix S6150 is SD, SDHC and SDXC compatible for ultra large memory capacities. It would be nice to have seen USB 3.0 for speedier transfer of a massive amount of pictures, but given the price point, we may be asking too much.
The touch-screen could be more responsive. It does obey your commands but you have to be a bit forceful with it. We also found that the position of the arrows to bring up the menu systems was too far into the edge and using just a finger wouldn't bring them up, instead we had to use a fingernail.
We tested the Nikon Coolpix S6150's shutter lag a number of times. In fact, we tried it more than usual because of the results that we got. Normally, a digital compact camera will provide a pre-focused result of around 0.08 seconds. The fastest we got the S6150 was 0.25 seconds. Generally, the results were around 0.30 seconds. Add a flash and you're looking at a delay of nearly a second. We nearly didn't test it without focusing but that came in at around 0.5 seconds. So it takes around a quarter of a second to focus which isn't bad.
Getting the camera to focus can be an issue, though. If the camera is doing anything else such as looking through the menu or if it's in playback mode, the S6150 doesn't work like other compacts whereby you can press the shutter button half way and it will come out of what it's doing and start to focus. Instead, you have to exit what you're doing by pressing a different button or by pressing the shutter release, then you have to focus after that. It sounds picky and maybe it is, but it's the small things that will gnaw away at you if you own this camera. The Nikon Coolpix S6150 has a drive mode located in the bottom menu. We managed to get 12 pictures in a 10 second time period averaging 1.2 fps (frames per second).
There are three focusing modes on the Nikon Coolpix S6150 and they're used to control the touch AF system. There's the touch shutter, subject tracking and touch AF/AE. The first and last are the same as each other with the exception that the latter doesn't take a picture automatically. Subject tracker will lock onto the area you've touched and keep with it even if it or the camera moves. They all work very well, finding no fault with them throughout the test.
One of the features to be stripped from the camera in order to make it easy to use is the metering modes. On a compact of this specification we expected to see up to three different metering modes but there are none. Still, the camera will use it's segment metering system which is the standard on digital compact cameras these days. It works very well but then Nikon metering always has.
In playback, there's quite a decent amount of things to do on the Nikon Coolpix S6150. Pressing the up arrow at the bottom of the screen brings the playback menu up. There's the option to select favourites, create a slideshow, lock pictures, direct print, edit and draw. To the right of the screen, you can add a number of stars to the selected picture to create a rating for it.
Nikon's new cameras have in-camera charging systems so you can charge directly from USB or connect the USB cable to a mains plug to charge from a socket. There's also a wrist strap and HDMI to analogue (red, yellow & white) video cable which kind of defeats the object. As soon as this cable is used, the digital quality is lost through the analogue leads. The included booklets are thick but multilingual. There's a safety guide and quick start booklet. The full instructions are on the provided CD and a second CD contains Nikon View NX2 for downloading and tagging your pictures.
Photography (Nikon)
Price: $425.00
- 15x optical wide-angle (28-420mm) Zoom-Nikkor glass lens
- 3.0-inch LCD and Electronic Viewfinder; 4-way VR image stabilization
- Nikon's Smart Portrait System , Red-eye Fix, Face Priority AE and more
- Nikon's Smart Portrait System; Red-eye Fix, Face Priority AE and more
Read more about Nikon Coolpix L100 10 MP Digital Camera with 15x Optical Vibration Reduction (VR) Zoom
Nikon D3100 14.2MP Digital SLR Camera with 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 AF-S DX VR Nikkor Zoom Lens
Photography (Nikon)
List Price:
Price: $596.95
You Save: $52.05 (8%)
- Includes 3x 18-55mm Zoom-NIKKOR VR Image Stabilization lens
- 14.2-megapixel DX-format CMOS image sensor; 3-inch monitor with One-Touch Live View shooting and movie capture
- Easy-To-Use Nikon Guide Mode with intuitive controls and on-board assistance
- Capture images to SD/SDHC/SDXC memory cards (not included)
Read more about Nikon D3100 14.2MP Digital SLR Camera with 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 AF-S DX VR Nikkor Zoom Lens
Comparing Nikon Supertelephoto Lenses
Roger from LensRentals compares the different Nikon Supertelephoto lenses.
NIKON ?
Nikon d60 vs Nikon d80 i will be taking sports photography and was wondering if i will really be able to tell a difference between the two cameras??
Both will do what you are talking about here. There are differences in them and the best thing is to go down the features list and see which one has the things you want, It starts about midway of this document
http://www.nikonusa.com/Assets/Common-Assets/PDF/DSLR_Compare.pdf
Ihope it helps
There's not much difference- the D80 just a little better.
How do I transfer Nikon Coolpix 900 camera images to my modern Dell computer without the factory Serial cable?
Nikon Coolpix 900 camera, an older digital camera. Just bought it in very good condition but no Nikon serial cable. Camera has compact flash memory card. Need to transfer pictures to my desktop computer, a Dell Dimension E310. Any way to do it without the cable? Original Nikon cable is mostly unavailable in my 'net search thus far.
Go to Best Buy or Walmart and buy a card reader that plugs into a USB port. You ought to be able to get one for less that $20, probably less than $10. Plug it into your computer and then put your camera's compact flash card in the reader. It will show up on your computer as an external drive. From there, just drag the pix to the file you want them in on your computer.
The camera has been out of the loop for over eight years.
Are nikon teleconverters worth getting? Is it better just to buy a telephoto lens?
I am using a nikon 18-200mm VR lens. I want to be able to zoom in a lot closer. Do you recommend I get a 2X teleconverter or should I buy a 400 or 500mm lens?
I want to zoom in on animals at a zoo and sporting events
Any suggestions would be great.
The lens is the best choice. Loosing 1 or 2 stops when you need them the most will make the converter a poor option.
Set your lens at 200mm f/22 and see if you have the shutter speed you need for sports or even the zoo. That will be what you are limited to with the 2x converter. -Actually the converter will be a little worse.-
Before you buy a teleconverter make sure that your lens will accept one. Only certain lenses can use one.
I often use a Minolta 2X teleconverter with my Minolta 70-210mm f4 (constant aperture) zoom. If you'd like to see the results, go to http://www.flickr.com/photos/drifter45h/sets. The water lilies were taken on Fujicolor Superia Reala IS) 100 film as was the first large red flower. The butterflies are on Kodak Royal Supra ISO 200 (sadly discontinued).
Yes, you do lose f-stops with a 2X teleconverter but that's seldom a problem when shooting in bright light. Of course, you can always adjust your ISO from 100 to 400 and regain the "lost" f-stops. Your Nikon should give good results at ISO 400 with little "noise" - and you can always use the in-camera noise reduction or Noise Ninja to clean up your picture.
The Nikon 400 mm f/2.8 is just under $7,500.
Here is a list of the lenses that can be used with the 2x teleconverter.
http://www.nikonusa.com/Find-Your-Nikon/Product/Camera-Lenses/2130/AF-S-Teleconverter-TC-20E-II.html
I have a Nikon D-40 digital camera. What would be best to use for storing and editing my photos?
We just got a new computer with Windows Vista. I have the software that came with the Nikon camera, we also have Windows photo gallery on our computer and a Windows XP version of Adobe Photoshop elements (would that run ok on Windows Vista?) Which program would be best?
Interestingly enough, I have Elements 2.0 and it seems to work with Vista just fine.
Elements is not super powerful, but it sure gets many jobs done just fine.
I suspect the software from the D40 probably won't work on Vista and it's probably pretty basic as far as how much editing you can do.
Good luck!
instead of the nikon software, you can use windows to store your images and use a card reader. That way, you don't need the camera and it's power to transfer images.
Enjoy your camera - and shoot shoot shoot
It finds all the pics on your puter and cards and organizes them automatically.
It's totally brilliant and totally free.
Editing: I'll bet you can do about 80% of what you want to do on Picasa.
For more complicated stuff, fire up Elephants.
Don't forget to *back everything up* on CD or DVD!
Hope this helps.
I am using Photoshop CS2 in Vista and have had no problems thus far. My guess is that if you are using an older version of Elements, beyond version 5, and have a problem, Adobe will tell you to upgrade. If it's version 5 or 6, then I believe their are Vista certified downloads you can get for them.
Storing and organizing images.
I started doing this back on an old XP SP2 machine. Windows did not have an option, so I went third party. I tried a bunch of things. Picasa, iPhoto, ACDSee and a bunch more...even the Adobe free PhotoManager.
After al lthe trials, I finally went with ACDSEE PhotoManager 9(they are up to version 10 now). It works fine with Vista after a patch is installed, is intuitive to me and I like the layout and options. One of the big things for me was that the tool had a way to back up the keywording and category database. I keep copies of the database on an external drive as well as on DVD.
Another thing I like about the ACDSee tool is that it allows you to keep images on CD or DVD and it catalogues them by serial number imbedded on the disc. You can select the image you want in the program and it tells you what disc to insert into the drive to retrieve the full res image. Pretty handy.
I've got about 6000 images catalogues and still going strong.
What is the best Nikon Coolpix digital camera?
Basicallt, I am about to get a new camera, and the kind i have decided on is the Nikon Coolpix series
But there are so many to choose from, and i really can't decide...
does anyone know the best one?
I have two, the 8800 and the P2. The 8800 has been discontinued but you can still find them, and it is a fantastic camera - 8 megapixels, 10X optical zoom, vibration reduction, and excellent macro capabilities. It is as close as you can get to having a digital SLR without having to change lenses!
My P2 is a pocket sized 5 mega pixel "snapshooter" with 3X zoom that I carry in my purse. It's also wireless, and can send the photos to my laptop as I take them and display them in an ongoing slideshow, with the new ones added each time.
Both take excellent quality photos and video and I'm very happy with both purchases.
For example, if you want to be able to do any manual settings yourself, or want the camera to do all of the adjustments for you.
There are also size considerations. Do you want a camera that can fit easily in your pocket, or will you be carrying it in a small case, and thus can get a bigger one w/more features.
Speaking of more features, generally, the more features, the quicker the battery goes dead. Especially with the triple flash of the red-eye reduction.
The number of mega-pixels is not really an issue anymore, as anything above 3 is pretty good quality for general prints up to 8x10. The best feature a camera can have now is the recover time in between pictures.
Nikon has great lense quality, so just go with budget, camera size and features you are most interested in.
Nikon Coolpix S560 camera - How do you get pictures from my internal memory to your computer?
I took some pictures today on my camera. I have a Nikon Coolpix S560. I forgot to put my memory card back in earlier and I don't have a cable. How can I get these pictures from my internal memory to my memory card? Thankyou!
It's pretty easy. You do need to have the USB cable that came with your camera. With it turned off, take any card out of the camera, turn it on to "review" mode (the one that you use to look a computers on the back), plug the usb cable into your camera and computer. You may have to click a menu on the camera for something like "PC mode". A window should pop up on the computer that will allow you to open an explorer window to review the images. Copy them over to your hard drive like the camera was any other hard drive.
Is a Nikon D200 too advanced of a camera for an amateur photographer just starting out with DSLR's?
I'm seeing some really good deals on used Nikon D200's right now because the D300 is out. I'm wondering if that would be a better bet long term than the D40x or D80 for my first Nikon DSLR because of the durability. Any thoughts on whether it would be too advanced for just starting out? Or could I grow into it pretty quickly?
I think I can give you some idea of the difference. I've been using Nikon SLR's for years. Then I went to digital with a D70 (predecessor to the D80). Later, I added a D50 as a backup (predecessor to the D40).
Recently, I took the next leap and purchased a gently used D200. Yes, it's a fantastic camera and I'm very glad I made the move.
But, for a first digital camera, it can be overwhelming. I've had it for about two months now and am still figuring out how to put it to best use.
The big difference, as I see it, is that the D40 and D80 have several choices in the mode dial to help a photographer easily set the camera.
You'll find these choices on the D80:
Programmed Auto (Flexible)
Shutter Priority Auto
Aperture Priority Auto
Full Manual Exposure
Vari-program: Portrait
Vari-program: Landscape
Vari-program: Close up
Vari-program: Sports
Vari-program: Night Landscape
Vari-program: Night Portrait
On the D40x, you'll find these:
Programmed Auto (Flexible)
Shutter Priority Auto
Aperture Priority Auto
Full Manual Exposure
Vari-program: Flash off
Vari-program: Portrait
Vari-program: Landscape
Vari-program: Child
Vari-program: Sports
Vari-program: Close up
Vari-program: Night Portrait
On the D200, there are fewer quick choices:
Programmed Auto (Flexible)
Shutter Priority Auto
Aperture Priority Auto
Full Manual Exposure
While the D200 had a vast selection of custom settings, for quick settings to match an immediate need (sports, landscape, portrait, etc.) the D40 and D80 have much shorter learning curves
Bottomline: how much time are you willing to spend learning? If you can dedicate yourself to the capabilities of the D200, you'll find yourself with a durable, extremely capable DSLR. If you want immediate photographic gratification, then a D40x or D80 would be a better choice.
It's like having an automatic transmission versus a manual shifting car. The ultimate choice belongs to the user.
If you have any other questions, please ask.
What are the ideal settings for Nikon S550 digital camera to get good quality pictures?
Hi this is Babu just now i bought Nikon coolpix S550 any one can suggest me what are the ideal settings for getting good quality pictures.i mean color setting and iso resolutinon like all thge settings i need .
Leave it at automatic for color balance settings. As far for the ISO, use 100 for Bright Sunny days. Use ISO 400 to 800 if you're taking pics at night.
What is the difference between the Nikon D40 and the D40x?
The Nikon D40 is $200 less expensive. I have tested the D40x out, and absolutely loved the picture quality. What exactly is the difference between the two?
The D40x is a camera designed at the mostly unadvised consumer market. Although most people will not notice, it's flash sync speed (important for capturing images in harshly contrasting light) is significantly lower (1/500 of a second versus 1/250 of a second). Also, the higher MP (and therefore more crammed) sensor takes a toll on the camera's light processing quality: while the "range of ISO" is supposedly larger, the smallest ISO value is 100, meaning that the camera has less base sensitivity to light. In layman's terms, this means that you either have to choose between the same noise performance or the same light performance as the D40, but not both. The FPS difference is negligible. As the owner of the non-x version, I'd say that the extra 200 dollars should go to a nice point and shoot back up or perhaps some camera accessories (lenses, flashes, etc.). If you want a good camera with more MP and better over-all performance than the D40, you will probably have to move up to the more expensive D80.
Also, there have been some very good D40 deals going around recently - multiple batteries and an additional 55-200mm along with the kit for less than the D40x would cost if it came without the basic lens.
How do you create different folders with nikon D80 camera?
How do you create different folders with nikon D80 camera?
Say if i am on vacation and want to organize them into different categeories while on the camera?
Refer to page 105 in your D80 owner's manual. You can edit or create folders, but you must specify which folder the image files are to be saved before you take them.
Tip: If you have a question about any function, the easiest thing to do is think about what it is you would like to know and simply look it up in the index at the back of the owner's manual.